6.03.2009

Dim Sum Roundup! A Look Back at Some Great, Albeit Long Ago Enjoyed Meals

So, I started to compiling this post quite a while ago. If I'm being honest, we can measure the time in months - not weeks. So many people asked me if I would keep up the blogging effort once I started working again and of course I thought I would. What I didn't take into account is just how busy I would be and how hard it is to find the time for documenting my many meals and travels. I thought it would be a shame not to share this post - even though some of the meals are mere memories so here goes a look back at many delicious encounters.

I will begin with some home cookin. This is a dish I make very frequently because of how quickly it can be thrown together and how totally yummy and wholesome it is. I guess I would call this Brazilian Codfish Stew, because a Brazilian lady I once worked with gave me the rough outline for it.

Here's the story - I pan sear about a pound or two of cod (depending on how many people I'm feeding) for like a minute. Then I add 1-3 chopped tomatoes, a few diced scallions, a handful of chopped cilantro, salt and pepper to taste and then top it off with as much coconut milk as I see fit. The tomatoes cook down and make it a little soupy but it's the cilantro that adds the flavor. I usually serve it over brown rice and it's pretty damn good.

Brazilian Codfish Stew

These are a few photos from... I dunno - April or something. I post them primarily because I want to make a point about Boston Beer Works. Some of their food simply isn't very good... but they do a few things that are quite tasty. Case in point - the fried pickles. I love fried pickles and tend to try them when they're on a menu but Beer Works has some of my favorites.

Beer Works Sliders... They Don't Suck

The Fried Pickles...


Game Time


Shiny Green Man


So case in point on the fried pickle tip. We went to LTK one night for dinner and it was actually very ironic. I mean, it's the LEGAL Test Kitchen. Seafood is their jam. Not this night... they were out of shrimp, swordfish, tuna and cod. Really? Anyway, I got a lobster roll and fried pickles and was pretty unimpressed. Instead of the spears like they have at Beer Works, LTK does little slices and the result is just underwhelming. You don't get that nice, warm pickle flavor and the batter slides right off. They also don't give you the nice side of ranch for dipping.

LTK Lobby & Fried Pickles


Okay so this was pretty awesome. I think this was my first work trip to Toronto. I have since been back like 5 times but we were at Rodney's Oyster House and these dudes ordered the 10 pound crab!!! I had to doctor the photo a little but it was pretty spectacular!

Giant Crab


Seafood Smorgasbord


There's been a lot of deviled egg activity lately. Have you noticed? Everywhere I go someone has some kind of wacky deviled egg on the menu. I'm not mad... I love a deviled egg. Deep Ellum has some of my favorites. They do them three ways and they're always different but they rock!

These specimens were from Central Kitchen and they were of a lobster variety which I didn't love but the rest of my meal was top notch. I had a chicken fricassee and my companion had tuna which he enjoyed a lot.

Central Kitchen Deviled Egg

An Unorthodox Chicken Fricasee

The Tuna


Another noteworthy morsel over the past few months were the asian-braised short rib soft tacos at Meyer's + Chang. I find the food a little hit or miss overall. Some dishes are very tasty and others miss the mark a little but these taco jammies are A-mazing.

Asian Style Taco


I went to Marliave with a small group a while back with some pretty good results. This place makes me a little nervous as I like it a lot but every time I go in there - it's fairly empty. This worries me. It's a fun little spot that harkens back to a bygone era and mixes some great classic cocktails. The food is pretty solid too. The location down a little side street off Tremont (behind the Orpheum) might be a bit of a challenge as you wouldn't walk by it unless you were looking for it, but I hope it survives because it's a great option. I have also been to Grotto, their sister resturant which does wonderful Italian in a much smaller setting. Show some support and check out Marliave next time you're going to dinner.

A Linguine and Clams Dish


A Well Mixed (Shaken?) Tom Collins

Yum. Steak & Cheese


That's all I got. As I finish this post of meals gone by, I feel a little sad. I have had so many wonderful meals over the past few months and have travelled a bit - London, Toronto, San Fransico - but I haven't documented my meals on these trips... or even some of the great dining experiences I have had a little closer to home. It is with renewed focus that I truly hope to do a better job sharing these experiences... but I make no promises. My days are long, my life is busy and it's hard to find the time.

The Question Isn't Do Lobsters Feel Pain... It's Do You Care?


Okay so Dana's hands really haven't been replaced by claws, he's just giving me the bird with a meaty lobster appendage, but you get the point. When you live in a place like Boston where the winters are long and the summers far too fleeting, that first taste of lobster is a coveted experience that embodies the very essence of the season and is a little like bottled sunshine.

Stuffies... They're Not Just for Peter Griffin

I know that living on the frosty shores of the Atlantic we can pretty much eat lobster year round (although it's freshest in summer when warmer water temps bring lobsters out of hibernation and closer to the water surface to facilitate trapping), but nothing really beats that fist sun kissed summer lobster roll accompanied by a plate of fried clams and a steamy cup of creamy chowder procured at your favorite fried seafood joint. One bite conjures up happy memories of blissful days spent at the beach when the afternoon light would get syrupy as the day stretched into evening and your hair was a tangle of stiff, salty strands. Yum…

Possibly the Best Fried Clams on Earth

I have been very lucky to always live near the beach. Growing up my grandparents split their time between Jamestown, R.I. before it was the hoity toity destination it is now and a sleepy little beach community called Ocean Park, M.E. We don't brag about it but O.P. is tucked between Old Orchard Beach and Saco (although I sometimes lie and say it's between Scarborough and Saco to those who are ignorant of the southern Seacoast geography) and while OOB has a reputation for being honky tonk and tacky, it is home to one of the most pristine stretches of shoreline in New England.

A Bad Photo of a Great Peekytoe Crab Cake at Walter's


A dry town with not much more than a seasonal library, a soda fountain that slings burgers and lime rickeys, a penny candy and variety shop, a "grocery store" that makes proper 1/4 lb. lobster rolls (not too much mayo and no unnecessary accoutrements) for a paltry $10 and a rec hall with Saturday night dances for the kids - this is the type of place where everything shuts down on Sunday during church services. Oh yeah, the multi denominational church that is only open during summer and where every week they welcome a visiting minister, priest, rabbi or Imam. It’s an old town kind of place where people greet each other warmly and porch lights are out by 10pm.

A Huot's Lazyman Lobster


At the end of every street along this stretch of coast you will find a beautiful boardwalk and not a whole lot else. As a kid who loved the beach – this was pretty much the best place ever. There was never more to think about than which bathing suit I was going to wear and what kind of sandwich I might have for lunch. Rainy days were like a curse from God as was sitting in Sunday school when it was particularly hot out, but otherwise, it was beach, sand, sun and the occasional lobster roll.

The Scene at Pine Point

My grandparents no longer live in the house in Ocean Park and I am lucky enough to have responsibility for caring for the property and renting it out in the summer which affords me the opportunity to spend some time there. I routinely gorge myself on lobster while I’m up North – quite literally. On my first trip this season I consumed four lobster rolls and a lazy man over three days. You do the math.

Lobster Cod Brulee at Walter's

Griddled local cod with a golden brulee of Maine lobster aioli,

grilled ramps and corn over roasted Japanese sweet potatoes

I should mention where we eat when we're there. Our favorite is a little family owned spot in Camp Ellis called Huot's where the food is consistently tasty and the service is almost ironically friendly. I love their haddock chowder as it's not overly thick but a nice medium consistency and it's overflowing with fish. Fried Clams are battered with a corn meal concoction that makes them amazingly crunchy and delicious. Their lobster rolls come on a toasted hotdog bun with a healthy portion of meat drenched in butter with mayo on the side.

Beachy Shadows

We're also fans of Bailey's Lobster Pound in Pine Point which has $10 rolls overflowing with lobster meat and lots of other options like crab claws, chowder, whole lobsters and meat. I will say that I still favor the lobster rolls at the Ocean Park Grocery Store (not much more than a deli counter and a few coolers of soda for beach goers) as they pack 1/4 pound of meat into a hotdog roll so the lobster to bread ratio is pretty amazing.

The Glow at Walter's

On this trip, we had a wonderful meal at Walter's Cafe on Exchange Street in Portland. They do some creative takes on standard seafood but not overly creative so as to be distracting. It's a lovely little place that's reasonably priced and has some good options if you're not into creatures from the sea...

Walter's AMAZING Caribasian Mango Shrimp Ceviche


As I started uploading the photos for this post, I remembered the David Foster Wallace article Consider the Lobster, that the writer tackled for Gourmet many years ago. What began as a study of the Maine Lobster Festival up on the Northern Seacoast, became a treatise on wether or not lobsters feel pain and if eating them is essentially immoral. It’s an interesting question but one I guess I choose to suppress when I dive into that succulent pink flesh all summer long. It’s much more convenient this way but I am a great one for suppressing the inconvenient facts or questions in life.

Thai Curry Spaghetti And Meatballs

The Wallace article raises a lot of interesting questions but as I reread it, I began to realize that while the question of whether or not lobsters feel pain, while metaphysically fascinating, is really a question of moral candor. Even if you believe that lobsters probably do feel pain and that all the thrashing around and the high pitched whines when you plop them into boiling water is demonstrative of a creature experiencing a rather painful death… and regardless of whether or not you really think they’re fully aware of this pain or that the whole death by scalding hot tub thing is a form of torture is – the real question is – how much do you care?

A Tarte Mixed Berry Crisp

If I’m being honest (and the article has lots of great factoids and research on this topic) then I guess I do think the poor little bottom feeders die a very painful death. But it’s a bit like getting your ears pierced or going on a rollercoaster – the pain or fear you feel is so very brief that you get over it very quickly. I may ponder what the lobster is going through as I watch it turn red and open and close its claws as the steamy water boils around it – but it’s very easy for me to suspend that thought as I crack the exoskeleton with my nut cracker and dive in to the buttery meat. It’s over fast and I guess it just doesn’t bother me that much… or if it does, it’s only for a minute.

A Perfect Lunch...


...With an Awesome View

Anyway, Wallace provides some great commentary on the machine that is tourism...

“I confess that I have never understood why so many people’s idea of a fun vacation is to don flip-flops and sunglasses and crawl through maddening traffic to loud hot crowded tourist venues in order to sample a “local flavor” that is by definition ruined by the presence of tourists. This may (as my Festival companions keep pointing out) all be a matter of personality and hardwired taste: The fact that I just do not like tourist venues means that I’ll never understand their appeal and so am probably not the one to talk about it (the supposed appeal)…. As a tourist, you become economically significant but existentially loathsome, an insect on a dead thing."

Maceo Enjoying the Way Life Should Be

You can check out the actual Gourmet article or this PDF reprint which I found much easier to read as all the footnotes weren't crowded onto a few pages but fell below the actual text they were intended to annotate. It's also completely ridiculous of me to say, but I found the comments on the Gourmet site a little hard to swallow (pun completely intended) even though this whole post is essentially one long rambling comment.

Peace

I try to be philosophical and entertain both sides but I also appreciate Wallace's literary skill and approach to his subject matter. I guess I just don't want to hear a bunch of self righteous foodies debate the merits of his arguments or blather on about whether or not it was really a culinary piece. That's just not the point... but who am I to judge?

5.19.2009

Not Confidential: Two Views... Both Valid on The Man You Might Just Love to Hate

I have a love hate relationship with Anthony Bourdain. If I'm being totally honest, then it has a lot to do with plain ole' jealousy. I mean, why does he get to jet around the globe, hanging out with locals in cool, exotic and sometimes uncharted territories while the rest of us have to pay to go on lame-ass vacations and are lucky if we find that great experience where the food and the people are welcoming and authentic?

Why Does He Get to See This? My Ancestral Homeland (the Azores)


I mean who wouldn't want his life? But it's something else too that makes me cringe... just a little at the sound of his New York hardened, ex-punk rock, former chain smoking, liquor swilling voice. Something that makes me feel like he's trying just a little too hard. Something not altogether authentic. Something false.

Something that those witty guys at Magnet Magazine so deftly illustrated a while back in this really funny article. I've meaning to post this for a while. It cracked me up because I could honestly take both sides.

Anyway, take him for what you will. I live vicariously through his many adventures while I sit at home, working my normal, non-thrill seeking job, taking my sad little one week vacations where try as I might, I inevitably do touristy stuff and have experiences that are hardly authentic. I only wish I could be as false as Tony.